Day 55 St Abb’s Head

Saturday 30 May 2015

Coldingham to Cockburnspath (Berwickshire)
15 miles
Hosted by Ali

Another beautiful sunny morning and a wonderful view overlooking the beach while I ate smoked haddock for breakfast. I was late starting walking again as I was taking advantage of the wifi and trying to catch up with blogging and logging photos. 

The small town of St Abb’s was just around the corner and I stopped to have a look at another of the 1881 storm memorials and admire the view.  

Jill Watson’s Great Storm sculpture at St Abb’s (St Abb’s Head in the background)
 As I walked around St Abbs Head the wind became stronger, the ground steeper and rougher, and the views more magnificent.  
Looking back at St Abbs and beyond from the Head
I passed the lighthouse right on the Head and then rounded the corner to a cliff full of sea birds.  

Sea birds on the cliff and the sea a beautiful colour
 The walk today was ridiculously hilly, non-stop up and down some very steep slopes. In some places I had to zig zag up the grass cliff in front of me. The path was well signposted but perhaps it needs a health warning – fit people only! Thank goodness for walking poles! 

Looking ahead at all those steep ups and downs!
 When I looked back I could see weekend fishing in canoes on the Coldingham Loch.  

Don’t rock the boat! (Coldingham Loch)
Another stroke of luck, after St Abb’s Head I only met one other person all morning and he advised me of the one place on the route where there was no signpost to direct you and the route wasn’t obvious. If it hadn’t been for him I’d have had a much longer walk with more road. The views were outstanding and I could clearly see Torness Power Station and right up to Bass Rock in the Firth of Forth. Most of the coast path seemed like sheep tracks, narrow paths along the cliff top, but it did head inland at one point and I had a quick break admiring the view with the sheep.  

Looking along Dowlaw Dean to the sea
By this point I was pushing the pace as I hadn’t been able to find any accommodation in Cockurnspath (no guest houses and no campsites) so I needed to catch the bus to Dunbar where I was hoping to find something. The only afternoon bus was at 16:44 and I couldn’t afford to miss it. I dropped down into Pease Bay and back up the hill, past the caravan site, and I was nearly there.  

Pease Bay
In the end I reached Cockburnspath with 45 minutes to spare so I popped into the local shop for some well-earned sustenance. As I had time I decided to call my friend Ali, who lives in Edinburgh, to discuss when I would be arriving. Another stroke of luck, she doesn’t live too far from Dunbar and offered me a bed for the night. Problem solved and I get to catch up with an old friend. Perfect. By the time Ali picked me up from the bus I had decided to take the following day off and spend it with friends. 

One thought on “Day 55 St Abb’s Head

  1. Chris Frazer May 31, 2015 / 5:58 pm

    Beautiful coastline…..just gorgeous. Keep going I want to see the rest of the coastline of our beautiful country…….envious……on on Airperson Blackadder!


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