Saturday 30 May 2015
Coldingham to Cockburnspath (Berwickshire)
Hosted by Ali
Another beautiful sunny morning and a wonderful view overlooking the beach while I ate smoked haddock for breakfast. I was late starting walking again as I was taking advantage of the wifi and trying to catch up with blogging and logging photos.
The small town of St Abb’s was just around the corner and I stopped to have a look at another of the 1881 storm memorials and admire the view.
As I walked around St Abbs Head the wind became stronger, the ground steeper and rougher, and the views more magnificent. I passed the lighthouse right on the Head and then rounded the corner to a cliff full of sea birds.
The walk today was ridiculously hilly, non-stop up and down some very steep slopes. In some places I had to zig zag up the grass cliff in front of me. The path was well signposted but perhaps it needs a health warning – fit people only! Thank goodness for walking poles!
When I looked back I could see weekend fishing in canoes on the Coldingham Loch.
Another stroke of luck, after St Abb’s Head I only met one other person all morning and he advised me of the one place on the route where there was no signpost to direct you and the route wasn’t obvious. If it hadn’t been for him I’d have had a much longer walk with more road. The views were outstanding and I could clearly see Torness Power Station and right up to Bass Rock in the Firth of Forth. Most of the coast path seemed like sheep tracks, narrow paths along the cliff top, but it did head inland at one point and I had a quick break admiring the view with the sheep.
By this point I was pushing the pace as I hadn’t been able to find any accommodation in Cockurnspath (no guest houses and no campsites) so I needed to catch the bus to Dunbar where I was hoping to find something. The only afternoon bus was at 16:44 and I couldn’t afford to miss it. I dropped down into Pease Bay and back up the hill, past the caravan site, and I was nearly there.
In the end I reached Cockburnspath with 45 minutes to spare so I popped into the local shop for some well-earned sustenance. As I had time I decided to call my friend Ali, who lives in Edinburgh, to discuss when I would be arriving. Another stroke of luck, she doesn’t live too far from Dunbar and offered me a bed for the night. Problem solved and I get to catch up with an old friend. Perfect. By the time Ali picked me up from the bus I had decided to take the following day off and spend it with friends.