Day 73 East Neuk of Fife (Part 2)

Wednesday 17 June 2015

St Monans to St Andrews
22 miles
Ruth’s house

Two buses back to St Monans and I started with a walk down the hill that the town is built on to the small harbour. St Monans, and all of the towns today, had a tidal swimming pool built into the rocks. It used to be the site of salt pans in the 1600s and these are still visible, along with the windmill above them. 

St Monans tidal pool and salt pans now grassed over
 Unfortunately it seemed that none of these pools were any longer subject to upkeep by the council which is a shame. Anstruther’s pool was at least being used by local school children who were having a kayaking lesson. I chatted to one of the instructors who told me to look out for a 250 million year old fossilised tree on the rocky shoreline but although I searched I couldn’t find it. It was like looking for a needle in a haystack among the millions of rocks. The coastal walk today was mostly on cliff tops between towns and it was a very pleasant and beautiful, but hilly, walk. Pittenweem was the next town and then Anstruther.  

Anstruther art work
Anstruther tidal pool being used for school kayaking lessons
The sky was cloudy but at one point there seemed to be a halo of sunshine over the Isle of May, which is just off the coast here and can be visited on a boat trip from Anstruther.  

A halo over the Isle of May (note how rocky the shoreline is – no chance of finding a tree fossil!)
 Crail is the next picturesque little harbour town and I stopped here for a well-earned cream tea.  

Crail harbour
 From Crail I headed past a disused airfield to Fife Ness. Rounding Fife Ness meant finally leaving the Forth behind and looking ahead to the Tay, it felt like I was getting somewhere.  
Approaching the lighthouse at Fife Ness
The scenery was stunning and it helped that the sun was coming out. I had reached another golf course, a posh one where there seemed to be more caddies than players and I definitely heard American accents. It didn’t prevent me from walking along the edge as the path was quite eroded in places. I was moving between beaches and links golf courses.   
Craighead beach with Fife Ness in the background
 It was amazing the different colours of sand on the beaches, some were white, one was grey, and some were yellow. I thought Cambo Sands at Kingsbarns was particularly beautiful.  
Cambo Sands
After walking up the small valley and crossing Kenly Water at Boarhills the path became a lot more rugged for the walk to St Andrews.  

Looking along the cliffs to St Andrews
 There were lots of ups and downs and a few places where the path seemed to have been eroded away and a bit of scrambling was required. It was sweaty walking but fun in the sunshine.  
Hard walking up and down these cliff paths

It had been another long day and I arrived at St Andrews just in time to have a quick look around the cathedral ruins before they closed. After that I rewarded myself with an icecream from the gelateria and then had just enough time to shop for some food before the last, and only, bus back to Ruth’s. A lovely day.  

St Rule’s 12th Century church and the cathedral ruins

4 thoughts on “Day 73 East Neuk of Fife (Part 2)

  1. Val K June 21, 2015 / 11:49 am

    Don’t think you got my comment when I received your first blog this morning after nearly a week
    of silence. Now just got the 5th one. I had been getting quite worried I am now thrilled to get
    5 and will settle down to read them all this afternoon. Hurray! Val xx


    • jstumm June 21, 2015 / 12:35 pm

      Well said Val, the blogs are like buses – you wait ages for one, then five come along at once!!!


      • Lucy June 21, 2015 / 9:49 pm

        Sorry I’ve kept you all waiting, I have struggled to find the motivation a bit this week. Hopefully I’m back on track now


  2. Chris Frazer June 27, 2015 / 4:49 am

    Juice…another big day with lots of miles under your belt. Well done your diet of cake, cream tea, ice cream and exercise may attract some and has some potential. Awesome scenery and pleasant weather….but the best phots are your selfies….keep smiling. Brilliant…truly inspirational.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s