Sunday 19 July 2015
Durness to Lairg and back
100+ miles driving and 4 mile walk
Sango Sands Campsite, Durness
It rained through the night and was raining when I woke up. I had planned to take a trip to Cape Wrath today but there was no point as the visibility was dreadful. Some cycle tourists were packing up in the rain and were soaked. I was glad I had a car. I sat in the car for an hour and a half, reading and listening to music, hoping the weather might clear a bit. It didn’t. I decided to leave my tent where it was and wait until tomorrow – I do want to get to Cape Wrath.
I started driving with no particular purpose and ended up going back to Tongue and then heading South, almost to Lairg, and back North via the road to Kinlochbervie. I felt like I was immersing myself in the Highlands even if I couldn’t see much of the scenery.
Occasionally I got a decent view and the landscape is amazing, and it changes. Sometimes it’s hilly, sometimes flat and boggy with pine forests being cultivated, and in the far North West the hills become more rocky.
I stopped at another empty, soulless and distinctly rubbish cafe on the way South. With so many tourists up here, many of them foreign, I’m slightly surprised the cafes are so poor.
On the way back North I was fortunate to see some red deer in an area that had been de-forested. I also saw a few anglers, although not as many as yesterday, and a few hardy cyclists (who looked drenched). I didn’t see Ben Hope; the most Northerly Munro has not been visible for the past 2 days.
It finally stopped raining at 3.30 pm and as soon as I got back to the campsite I went out for a short walk over Faraid Head. I could see across to Cape Wrath, although it was still dark. I walked back along Balnakeil Beach and then into Durness.
I am hoping for better views tomorrow.