Sunday 1 November 2015
Cemlyn Bay to Holyhead
The Beach Hut Guest House
Is it really November? Today was one of the hottest and sweatiest walks I’ve done since April. I found out in the evening that Ceredigion in mid-Wales reached 22.4C and broke the UK November temperature record. I think they should have had thermometers on NW Anglesey!
Barry kindly gave me a lift down to Cemlyn Bay for an 8 am start. It was already warm enough for just shorts and a t-shirt and the sun was trying to burn through the morning mist. The sea was calm and beautiful in the strange morning light and the Oystercatchers and Curlews were out in force.
The walk to Carmel Head was up and down, across field of cows and over fern-clad headlands. Despite the sun and warmth the grass was wet all day and within an hour my boots were soaked through.
Although it was misty I could easily see West Mouse and, further out, The Skerries. Both islands had lighthouses. There were also 3 tall stacks on the mainland: one chimney and two pyramid-like white stacks. I don’t what they were for but they did seem to be in line with the West Mouse lighthouse.
I rounded Carmel Head and nearly walked right into a Buzzard sat in the grass. I saw several Buzzards and Kestrels today. I could also see just how turbulent the water is at the NW tip of Anglesey.
I reached Church Bay in time for early elevenses at the excellent Wavecrest Cafe. Top marks for their incredible scones and good timing by me as today was the last day of opening in 2015. (I suspect closed cafes might be a theme from now on.)
Refreshed, I carried on in the heat and the haze. I left the ups and downs of the North behind and came across more sandy bays. Some people were in the sea – paddling, paddle boarding and canoeing.
I could see Holyhead Mountain through the haze and the big ferries coming and going.
Another of Thomas Telford’s masterpieces: The Stanley Embankment, links Anglesey to Holy Island, carrying 2 main roads (A55 and A5) and a railway line. No wonder it was very noisy crossing it.
I walked through Penrhos Coastal Park, which is on land owned by the Aluminium Smelting Works, and walked into Holyhead.
Although this town is on a small island off Anglesey, it is Anglesey’s largest town and a busy port.
I walked to my hotel and there was a notice stuck to the door telling me that Dave was out buying bread and milk and would be back soon. I thought I’d earned a beer so I went into the Kings Arms next door for a pint and a packet of crisps. It was only 4.30pm so I probably shouldn’t have been surprised by the state of the very few clientele: seriously drunk. This including the barman who could barely stand or hold a conversation, though he kept trying the latter. I learned that Welsh men are great in bed and Richie (who came into the pub for some gravy!) only lives round the corner if I fancy it. I didn’t stay long.