Monday 9 November 2015
Tudweiliog to Aberdaron
No 2 Dolfor B&B
Another bad weather day. Winds were 50+ mph and lots of rain was forecast.
Caroline’s mum cooked me breakfast and then gave me a lift down the road. She drove me to see Porth Colmon and then dropped me off at the Pen-y-graig crossroads. She was lovely to chat to and it was very kind of her to give me a lift.
After much discussion yesterday with Caroline, Nicola and other locals in the pub I had decided that walking the coast path would not be a sensible idea. Based on Saturday’s walk I knew that the paths would be in a bad state and negotiating my way around the edge of the coast in gale force winds, on my own, was too risky. I would have to walk the minor roads instead. I took advice on the route and which bays I should walk to before I set off.
There aren’t many cars on the road this far along the Lleyn Peninsula; only half a dozen passed me all day (not including the postman, who passed me 4 times and stopped to check I was ok).
Initially it was hardly raining, just incredibly windy. After about an hour the rain became harder and I got soaked to the skin, again. The weather did seem to be adding to the fun of the whirling, twirling, dancing seagulls.
I walked down to Porth Oer, to admire the Whistling Sands beach. Just like when I went to Eigg, there would be no whistling of the sands today, in this weather. I did see surfers in the sea. It was a lovely beach and had a cafe (closed for Winter) called The Cole Hole, so named because it was originally a coal shed.
On the headland at Carreg, just above Porth Oer, was a Jasper quarry. It had been opened in 1904 to extract the red stone for decorative building purposes and, according to the information board, was still mined by 3 local farmers.
I walked up to the top of the hill where there was a stone walled corral.
Every step was a fight against the wind and when I reached the top I found I could not admire the windward view because rods of rain stung my eyes and forced them shut.
The rain seemed to be getting worse as walked along the roads, first to Anelog and then to the tip of the Lleyn Peninsula at Gwyddel. I climbed my 2nd hill of the day to see if I could see Bardsey Island across the Bardsey Sound. Just about, through the gloom and the driving rain while trying to balance at an acute angle against the wind.
I was now officially heading down the West coast of Wales. Aberdaron is nestled into hillside where the Afon Daron flows into Aberdaron Bay. It has 3 roads into it, all are steep descents to the heart of the village.
I arrived at Steve and Jan’s house quite early but soaked through. Jan immediately produced a pot of tea and biscuits while I tried not to drop everywhere. Their boiler had just packed up so there was no heating, but it didn’t affect the shower so it was all fine.
I walked down the hill to the local pub for dinner. The food was nice and I listened to the weather coming across the beach and battering the windows.