Tuesday 10 November 2015
Abersoch to Aberdaron (walking clockwise)
No 2 Dolfor B&B
Guess what…it was pouring with rain and very windy. Jan cooked a nice breakfast and then drove me to Abersoch so I could walk back to Aberdaron. This seemed like the best plan based on the lack of sensibly priced accommodation in Abersoch. The town has pretentions. As a result, all guest houses seemed to be double the price of everywhere else.
Jan dropped me off on the small headland at Abersoch and I walked around it and back to the main street. This town has an upper middle class air about it – large houses, nice parks and shops like Fatface and Crew Clothing Company.
I walked along the golf course, next to the Southern beach, to Machroes. Here were some more large houses with huge windows to maximise the beautiful views. This is a lovely spot.
Due to the high winds and driving rain I didn’t brave the coast path around the cliffs opposite St Tudwal’s islands (at the ‘heel’ of Llyn), but walked the minor roads. I did walk down to Porth Ceiriad: a beautiful, south-facing beach at the base of the cliffs. The waves were big and the roar of the foaming water was loud.
I took the roads back through the small villages of Bwlchtocyn and Llanengan and headed onto the 3.5 mile long beach at Porth Neigwl.
Porth Neigwl’s long beach is known as Hell’s Mouth as it is South-West facing and consequently receives the full brunt of the Atlantic gales. Many ships have been wrecked here but the 1898 wrecking of the schooner, The Twelve Apostles, at Hell’s Mouth, had a touch of sardonic wit.
The beach was desolate and flanked by an unclimbable clay cliff. There were lots of clay ‘rocks’ strewn across the shingle.
At the Western end of the beach is a steep hillside below the village of Rhiw. This time I followed the coast path around the hill and onto the road back to Aberdaron.
Unfortunately I missed the waterfall onto the beach at Porth Ysgo – I was too wet and the grass too slippery to bother trekking down to this beach.
I arrived back at the B&B dripping wet again. Thank goodness for Jan providing tea and biscuits. She also very kindly invited me to join her and Steve for dinner and she cooks a good lasagne. I had a really nice evening comparing notes and swapping stories with Steve as he is a retired policeman. It was a late night.