Day 243 Start of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Friday 1 April 2016

Cardigan to Newport

17 miles

Newport Golf Club

I left Cardigan behind and headed across the Afon Teifi to St Dogmaels.  

what’s left of Cardigan Castle walls
 Crossing the river meant leaving Ceridigion and entering Pembrokeshire.  

I’ve reached the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
I walked past the St Dogmaels Abbey and headed to the riverbank, seeking out the Blessing Stone. This large lump of rock may have been the capstone of a dolmen and legend has it that the Abbot of St Dogmaels used to bless the fishing boats and the river from it. I asked for a blessing for the rest of my trip.  

The Blessing Stone
 Upon leaving St Dogmaels I happened upon the official start of the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path. A couple of blokes were waiting to start their walk and insisted on taking a photo of me.  

It’s only 300km to Amroth (Wales has gone European!)
 I set off, along the banks of the Teifi to Poppit Sands. It started to drizzle and this was the weather theme of the day. It wasn’t heavy enough rain to require waterproofs but it was damp and the visibility was much reduced. Fortunately the lighthouse at Strumble Head was flashing to guide me. 

looking down on Poppit Sands and the mouth of the Teifi
 Around Cemaes Head I got my last view back to Cardigan Island and Foel-y-Mwnt. There was an abandoned Lookout station with a joke “for sale” sign; only £20Bn and you get the beach below thrown in (accessible only by a seal colony).  

wonderful rock formations and the derelict lookout hut on top of the cliff at Cemaes Head
 The rock formations along the next section of coach were really interesting – lots of crumpled strata.  

strange rocks (Dinas Head in the background)
 I passed through Ceibwr Bay and carried on, up and down, up and down. 

I’ve got to walk all of that!
Have you seen these amazing cliffs?
 The cliffs were dramatic but the views limited today. Looking along the cliffs they almost seem flat(ish); however, the path doesn’t go across the top but weaves up and down the cliff side. It was obviously designed by a masochist.  

Careg Yspar
 As I approached the corner heading round into Newport Bay the wind picked up (the forecast was for gale force winds) and the rain became heavier. Instantly walking became incredibly difficult and I was being seriously blown about. I had to bend almost double and stick my poles in. The rain felt like pin pricks and really stung. Occasionally I passed behind a hedge of gorse and the rain stopped – it was horizontal after all.   

I walked all that way from Cemaes Head
 The last 45 minutes into Newport Sands were a struggle and I was not able to lift my head to look for a view across to Dinas Head. I was soaked through when I arrived at the golf club (a links course cutting right into the beach) so was grateful for a hot shower, tea and cake.  

The view from my bedroom – looking across Newport Bay to Dinas Head
 I ate in the golf club as there was no way I was venturing out. The rain was teaming down and I was very glad not to be camping.  

I had never heard of the IAT but it seems the Pembrokeshire Coast Path was the first of lots of UK long distance paths to join it

7 thoughts on “Day 243 Start of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

  1. Zephyrine April 1, 2016 / 10:20 pm

    Your walk is blessed – & you have brought blessings on others, not least me! My boots are holding up, & I have walked regularly – up hills, & along beaches – since you were here last year. Hazel & I were on Half Moon Bay just 3 days ago – we waved to the I of M ferry. Z


    • Lucy April 2, 2016 / 7:34 pm

      That’s brilliant news. Well done you! Glad you’re enjoying your walking. Ah Half Moon Bay…


  2. jstumm April 2, 2016 / 5:54 pm

    Sounds exciting. Just got round to reading all your blogs as the ipad has been hijacked! Will keep better track from now on. We had Peter’s birthday party today, that was fun!? Be careful. J


  3. Benno April 2, 2016 / 6:44 pm

    We went to Poppit sands a couple of years back lovely when the tide is out but very windy, it all ways rains all of the time in Wales 😊


  4. Anna Flory April 2, 2016 / 8:33 pm

    So pleased that you have started again. I’ve missed your posts. Keep safe & looking forward to catching up when you’ve completed the walk


    • Lucy April 2, 2016 / 8:56 pm

      Hi Anna. I hope you are well? I see Abb’s has been doing well this season. I had no idea you were following my trip. Hopefully I’ll have a car to be able to pop down to Hawks next season!


  5. Chris April 3, 2016 / 3:41 am

    Shorts, scenery and a big glowing smile……..all the ingredients for an awesome adventure. On on Juice take that first step of the day and each step after that follows naturally.


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