Day 260 The Afon Loughor Marshes

Tuesday 19 April 2016

Llanelli to Llanmadoc, Gower

21 miles

Tallizmand Guest House

A big breakfast set me on my way for the second half of the Millenium Coastal Park. 

looking across the Loughor to Whiteford Burrows
Llanelli seems to be expanding and regenerating; I counted 3 new housing estates fronting onto the Loughor Estuary.  
More new houses and flats overlooking the estuary
In the 19th Century Machynys (translated to mean Monk’s Island, even though it’s not an island but there might have been a monastery here to St Piro) was the industrial heart of Llanelli. According to what I read there had been 3 iron foundaries 3 chemical works, steel and tinplate works, a brickworks and of course the floating dock and railway line to deal with all of the industry and the output from the coalfields further up the valley. Now the land has been regenerated and there is a golf course and the Millenium Coastal Park. Indeed the golf course was on the site of a former village, Bwlch y Gwynt, that was cleared for regeneration in 1973, signifying the loss of a community (although the football team is still going). 

I found this stone rather tucked away, in the car park of the Wetlands Centre
There is a lot of marshland either side of the Loughor Estuary, and the Llanelli side has an area set aside for a Wildlife and Wetlands Centre. I really needed the loo and so headed to the centre to use the facilities. Fortunately no one noticed me walk in because it was only when I exited that I realised I should have paid to go in the place. They have a really good lookout across the marsh and there were lots of birds to watch. 

the view across the marsh from the lookout in the Llanelli Wetlands Centre
I crossed the Loughor Bridge, left Carmarthenshire behind and entered Swansea and The Gower.  

Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s railway viaduct across the Loughor
The path headed inland slightly, following the Gower Trail, to skirt the marshes. A few muddy fields later and I was in Crofty, where I stopped at the CKs supermarket to get some lunch. 

lookin across the Llanridian Marsh towards Burry Port
As the tide was out I was able to walk the low road that skirts the edge of Llanrhidian Marsh. I stopped at a pub in Llanrhidian for a coffee, but it wasn’t the one with the Gower Brewery. 

Weobley Castle in the trees above Llanrhidian Marsh
The sun came out as I neared my destination and I had good views across the Loughor to Burry Port and Pembroke. The marshes reminded me of Cumbria, except instead of cattle grazing there were horses roaming these marshes. 

horses on the marsh
Just before Whiteford Burrows, a sandy and woody spit at the entrance to the estuary, I headed up the hill to Llanmadoc and my lovely accommodation. I had decided not to camp because the only campsite had such terrible reviews that I didn’t want to give my money to the owners (the B&B owners later confirmed their bad reputation). After such a long day I felt I deserved my pint of Gower Gold and an amazing Welsh lamb dinner. 

Llanmadoc, nestled below Llanmadoc Hill

Day 259 Carmarthen to Llanelli

Monday 18 April 2016

Llansteffan to Llanelli

15 miles (+ bus and train)

Coastal Park Accommodation and Grill

I was up early and keen to leave. I had discovered there was a bus from the end of the road into Carmarthen, which would save me a road walk. I caught the bus. Driving into Carmarthen I was struck by the amazing sports facilities – a running track, rugby pitches, indoor rugby training facility and more.  

welcome to Carmarthen!
 I had intended to catch a train from Carmarthen to Kidwelly as the train line runs next to the coast, whereas the path takes you inland (presumably to avoid the train). I had a long enough gap between bus and train to get a coffee and a bacon and egg sandwich for breakfast. I contemplated hanging around in Carmarthen for a couple of hours and getting the next train (they come at 2 hour intervals) but the man in the cafe suggested there wasn’t much to see in Carmarthen, just the Roman amphitheatre, which apparently takes 3 seconds. However, when I said I was heading for Llanelli he suggested I stay in Carmarthen.  

Carmarthen Castle in the heart of the town
 I caught the early train and watched the Afon Tywi go by out of the window.  

looking back across the Tywi to Llansteffan and Wharley Point
 Kidwelly is a small town “dominated by its castle”. I couldn’t see the castle, I think it was hidden amongst the houses and, having seen enough castles recently, I didn’t bother to hunt for it.  

Kymer’s Canal
 My walk began by following the 3-mile long Kymer’s Canal. It was built in 1768 to connect Kidwelly Quay with the collieries in the Gwendraeth Fawr valley and was Wales’ earliest industrial canal. It looks very small now.  

approaching Pembrey Forest along the edge of salt marsh
 I walked passed Pembrey airfield, through Pembrey Forest and popped out on Cefn Sidan Sands; 8 miles of golden sand and fantastic views of Carmarthen Bay and the Gower peninsula.   

looking across Carmarthen Bay
The Gower from Cefn Sidan Sands
 At the end of the beach is Pembrey Country Park, on the site of the former Pembrey Royal Ordnance Factory (which apparently suffered the first bombing raid of “The Blitz”). It provides lots of leisure activities, from Segway to skiing!  

skiing in Pembrey anyone?
 The next 21 km, from Pembrey to the Loughor Bridge, would be through the Millenium Coastal Park. This park seems to have been created to fill the gap left behind by all the heavy industry that used to be on the North bank of the Loughor Estuary.  

the start of the Millenium Coastal Park
 I made my way past Burry Port (built to take over the coal export duties from Kidwelly and Pembrey in the 1830s) and into Llanelli.  

a Millenium Coastal Park marker at Burry Port
 I stopped to admire the rugby posts, complete with model of Phil Bennett evading an All Black, that have been sited to commemorate the Scarlet’s old ground, Stradey Park (now a housing estate). An old man started talking to me about it and was impressed I knew of Phil Bennett. He loved Llanelli a lot more than the man in the cafe this morning; he told me he has a caravan at Wiseman’s Bridge but after a few nights there he has to come home because he misses it.  

it’s all about rugby around here (there are saucepans on the top of these posts!)
 Ironically, the old man had initially stopped me to ask why I wasn’t cold (wearing only shorts and a t-shirt) and, after 20 minutes talking to him as the wind picked up, I was now freezing. I only had a mile to go, past the Water Park (on the site of the old Llanelly Steel Works) and into town. How pleasant to be staying somewhere clean. I didn’t go out for the evening as I was able to get a homemade curry at the guest house.  

 

WEEK 36 – Angle, Pembrokeshire to Llansteffan, Carmarthenshire

  

54 miles walked

(total 2,011 miles walked)

Thanks to a trip to Caldey Island and a couple of days off, not so many miles covered this week. For the second time in as many weeks my initial attempt to catch a ferry was thwarted by poor weather. Despite this, once again I was able to delay a day and it was worth it to see Caldey Island in the sunshine.  

Tenby and Caldey Island in the evening sunshine
 In other areas luck has been on my side, from meeting George and Emma at Chapel Hill Fort to arriving at Amroth at the right time. 

I learnt that South-facing coastline of Pembrokeshire has almost all of the county’s sandy beaches, but that doesn’t mean the cliffs are any less up and down! 

Pendine beach from Wharley Point
 This week I also saw a herring gull with a broken wing (he was hopping to avoid me), an injured raven who looked like he’d flown into a bush and was rather bloody, and I found a dead fish on a beach.  

a completely intact dead fish marooned on the beach

Day 258 Dylan Thomas and the Afon Taf

Sunday 17 April 2016

Laugharne to Llansteffan

17 miles

Pant Yr Athro International Hostel

It wasn’t even 7 am when Sally dropped me off at Laugharne (pronounced Larne) and it was freezing; there was frost on the ground. Still, that’s not a good enough reason not to wear shorts, especially as the sky was bright blue and the sun was rising.  

Laugharne Castle
 I stood at the base of Laugharne Castle and ate my breakfast (egg sandwiches) while shivering and admiring the wonderful view down the Taf Estuary.  

looking down the Taf Estuary from The Boathouse
 Laugharne makes much of being the home town of Dylan Thomas and his family 1949-53. I was completely alone wandering around early on a Sunday morning. I checked out The Boathouse, where Dylan Thomas lived, and his writing shed, which has been decked out as it might have been. I even found his grave in the churchyard.  

Dylan Thomas’ Boathouse
Dylan Thomas’ writing shed
If he experienced such beautiful mornings as this, in such a wonderful, peaceful setting, then I’m not surprised he was inspired to write poetry. It was a magical moment in time.  

St Clears Boating Club, based on one of the Taf’s tributaries
 By the time I reached St Clears I had just about thawed out, removed my fleece and added sunglasses and suncream. I crossed the Afon Taf and headed back down the other side, mostly following (albeit backwards) the pilgrimage route from Carmarthen to St David’s. 

following in the footsteps of pilgrims
looking across the Afon Taf to Laugharne
 Wharley Point stands at the confluence of the rivers Taf and Tywi, and the views from this point were magnificent. Pendine Sands was just across the river Taf and I could see all the way SW to Caldey Island and SE to Worms Head.  

the corner of Pendine Sands from Wharley Point
  
looking out over Carmarthen Sands to Pembrey Forest and the Gower beyond
  

the Afon Tywi
 I had been fighting a hangover all day and so, when I walked into Llansteffan at 2 pm I stopped at the Inn at the Sticks (named after an area of woodland called the sticks where locals used to meet to sit on benches, gossip and enjoy the view across the Afon Tywi). Their roast beef dinner was just the ticket.  

Llansteffan Castle
 It was only a short hop from Llansteffan to my budget accommodation (there aren’t many campsites around here).  

looking down on the Afon Tywi
 The International Hostel at Pant Yr Athro was an interesting place. It was within a cluster of dwellings that included a posh hotel, stables and a chalet village; an eclectic mix. The hostel was dressed up as a Mexican bar…I couldn’t work that one out. The manager was very nice but I’m not sure he’s very good at cleaning. Lucky I was too tired to bother.  

 

Days 257 and 258 Rest in Amroth

Friday 15 & Saturday 16 April 2016

Rest days

Amroth Castle Holiday Village

Sally was in Cardiff so popped over to see me and it was a good excuse for a couple of days off. My spare time was easily filled with some sightseeing (back to Tenby and Pendine Sands), lots of eating and some drinking. The Saturday newspaper contained an article on places to eat by the coast and it featured a restaurant at Coppet Hall, Saundersfoot. So, after reading about it we tried it out, and I can thoroughly recommend Coast for some top quality food.  

fantastic fish lunch
  
the view of Monkstone Point from the restaurant
 It was a bit cold for swimming in the sea so we just admired the views from Pendine.  
looking across at the Gower from Pendine
 

Day 256 From Pembrokeshire to Carmarthenshire – the Need for Speed!

Thursday 14 April 2016

Tenby to Pendine

13 miles

Amroth Castle Holiday Village

It rained on and off during the night, which hadn’t been forecasted. I packed my tent away wet and got going just after 9 am.  

Monkstone Point and beach
 The path wound up and down through lots of woodland on the way to Saundersfoot. I enjoyed the song of all the small birds. I passed Monkstone Point and knew I’d arrived in Saundersfoot as I found myself navigating around some large houses.  

Saundersfoot and Wiseman’s Bridge
 Considering how posh the houses were I was surprised that the town did not seem more upmarket. It does have a nice sandy beach though. I stopped at a greasy spoon cafe for a coffee and a bacon and egg baguette. It was just what I needed.  

Saundersfoot
  
a beautiful spot in the sun at Saundersfoot, looking back at Monkstone Point
 The path to Wiseman’s Bridge mostly follows a disused rail line and goes through 3 tunnels. It must have been a nice train ride.  

an old train track leading into a tunnel
  
these tunnels seem quite small for a train!
 It was only a short hop to Amroth and, although it was only lunchtime, I was able to check in to Amroth Castle (not as glamorous as it sounds) and dump most of my kit. (I was very glad of this later.) 

Amroth
 Amroth marked the end of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, only 186 miles to St Dogmaels!  
the end of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
 Although not even 5 miles to Pendine it was very hilly. I met some people who told me it was classified a grade A walk (I’ve no idea what that means but I assume ‘hard’). It took me 2 very sweaty hours to get there.  

up and down those cliffs!
 The sun was hot today and I had a beautiful, but slightly hazy, view right across Carmarthen Bay and back to Tenby.  

looking back around the bay to Saundersfoot
 It was a lovely, if tiring, walk through lots of gorse. I saw 5 buzzards gliding over the cliffs, fulmars, pipits, and a kestrel. 

I zigzagged across the cliff above Marros Sands and eventually dropped down into the small cove of Morfa Bychan, which had lots of ugly, damaged concrete blocks just behind the shingle beach. I later found out this was where the D-Day landings were practised.  

Marros Sands (the sand is covered up at high tide leaving just shingle)
 Another big climb and Pendine Sands came into view. It looked stunning, providing the edge to a plain that was created at the end of the Ice Age.  

the Carmarthen estuary plain and Pendine Sands
 I was prepared for the 7-mile walk along the beach and around the corner that leads up the River Taf to Laugharne. Unfortunately the beach and the dunes on the plain belong to the MOD and the red flag was flying. (I could walk inland but I had been warned it was a boring walk next to the road.) 

approaching Pendine Sands
 I descended into Pendine and immediately had an ice cream as I thought I’d deserved one. I walked along the beach to speak to the man in the tractor that was parked on the sand as part of a barrier preventing the public walking further along the beach (apparently many ignore the signs and flags). He explained that the Royal- and French- Marines were ‘playing’ here all week so public access would only be after 4 pm every day. I wasn’t too upset as buses back to Amroth from Laugharne don’t exist so it solved my problem not to walk that far. Anyway, I’ve been to Pendine Sands before; I’ve landed on the beach in a C-130 Hercules, stood on the sand while an engine-running refuel was undertaken, and then taken off again. That was fun! 

looking down on Pendine Sands and dunes (no Marines in sight!)
 After chatting to the nice ex-army, QinetiQ employee I walked off the beach and visited the Museum of Speed. It was free and had a couple of very old motorcycles in it. Pendine’s beach has long been used for motorcycle racing and was also where J G Parry Thomas and Malcolm Campbell traded World Land Speed Records 1924-27. Parry Thomas lost his life here driving Babs and Campbell still holds the British Land Speed Record, set in Bluebird on this beach, both occurred in 1927.   

marking the speed records
 Pendine beach was also the take off point for Amy Johnson and her husband, Jim Mollison, when they became the first married couple to fly across the Atlantic in 1933. 

Pendine Sands and Pendine in the sunshine
 This beach really has seen some speed, although it seems to operate at a more sedate pace now and has a holiday village right behind it. (They do still have races in the winter.) I sat in one of the many cafes and enjoyed a cream tea while I waited for my bus back to Amroth.  
Amroth at sunset
 

Day 255 Caldey Island

Wednesday 13 April 2016

Day trip to Caldey Island

3 miles

Meadow Farm Campsite

I wasn’t too cold last night but the tent was soaked with condensation when I woke up early. I snuggled down and went back to sleep, waking 2nd time around to some sunshine. 

I wasn’t sure whether I was going to move on today or not – I was flexible – so I left my tent up to dry, packed light, and headed down to the harbour. After a quick coffee (and blog) stop on the way I arrived in time for the first boat to Caldey Island. It was packed with elderly people on a coach holiday and it took ages to get them all on board.  

Castle Hill from the boat
  
passing St Catherine’s Island
 The sun was shining and the sky mostly blue. I had a good opportunity to see where I walked yesterday and admire the views I had been missing. Tenby is really well situated with golden beaches and lovely views; no wonder it is such a popular holiday destination.  

it’s only a hop and a skip from Caldey Island to St Margaret’s Island to Giltar Point
 Caldey Island had a lovely, tranquil feel to it, which I think was down to the lack of children. Aside from the monks there is a permanent community of about 20 adult residents, and then there is an almost daily invasion of tourists.  

Caldey Abbey
 The first monastery on Caldey Island was founded in the 6th Century by monks from Illtud’s monastery in Llantwit Major, Glamorgan. From the 12th Century  until The dissolution of the monasteries in 1536, the Island was home to a Benedictine Priory, an off-shoot of St Dogmaels Abbey in Cardigan. Monks did not return to Caldey until the start of the 20th Century. In 1928 the Abbey was handed over to the Cistercian Order of monks and they still live there and contribute to island life. I had a quick chat with one of the brothers in the Post office/museum, where I bought a bar of chocolate made by the monks for my breakfast (they also make perfume but I didn’t try any).  

breakfast, and very nice it was too!
 The tiny village sits in a sheltered, wooded valley and is dominated by the huge Abbey. It is like a pretend village catering for tourists with a post office, museum, gift shop, tea room and perfume shop. I don’t think much has changed for a century.  

Sandtop Bay and St Margaret’s Island
 I walked around the Island, enjoying the views. I saw plenty of gulls, skylarks and a raft of razorbills. Chapel Point Lighthouse is on the highest point of Caldey and has great views all the way from Worm’s Head, the Gower, to St Govan’s Head.  

Chapel Point Lighthouse (especially for Rohan)
 I popped into the ancient ruin of St Illtud’s Church to see The Caldey Stone and also into St David’s parish church to admire the stained glass windows.  

St Illtud’s church with its strange tower
  
The Caldey Stone, complete with Ogham inscription around the side (dating it to the 6th Century)
 On my way back to the boat I nipped up the hill to the Calvey that can be seen from Tenby.  

The Calvey (Tenby in the distance)
 Arriving back in Tenby after 2 pm I went for a late lunch and languished in a cafe reading a newspaper. I decided it wasn’t worth moving on today so I chilled out instead. I walked back up to my favourite spot on Castle Hill and sat listening to the waves and the gulls.   
the tide didn’t leave that design behind!
 Eventually I headed back to the campsite for a shower and back into town for some dinner. Someone had been hard at work creating a design in the sand. 

The tree of life (St David’s church)
  
The fish (St David’s church)
 

Day 254 Tenby (Little Fort of Fishes)

Tuesday 12 April 2016

Manorbier to Tenby

8 miles

Meadow Farm Campsite

It was very misty and damp when I left the youth hostel. It was a good job I walked the extra bit for the views yesterday afternoon as it was not possible to see further than about 50m. Caldey Island was invisible and there were no views at all to speak of. 

I walked through a large caravan park at Lydstep, but apart from that I didn’t see a thing through the mist all morning. 

Unsurprisingly there was no firing at Penally Camp, which has been used for ‘musketry’ training since 1860. This meant I could cross it and go and take a look at the trench system that had been dug there in 1914 for training soldiers departing for the Great War. It is the only known surviving example of a trench system in the UK. It was quite atmospheric wandering through the trenches in the mist. I kept my whistle in my pocket.  

walking through Penally WW1 training trenches
 Giltar Point is only a kilometre from Caldey Island and should have great views all along the coast, just not today.  

Giltar Point (Caldey Island right behind it)
 I arrived at Tenby (Welsh name translated as the little fort of fishes) via walking along the beach. The old town is surrounded by the remains of a mediaeval stone wall and is built on a hill.  

approaching a misty Tenby along South Beach
 I stopped in a cafe for some lunch and then wandered down to the harbour to see about getting a boat to Caldey Island. Nothing was sailing due to the fog (I still couldn’t even see much of the beach). I decided to walk to the campsite heading out of Tenby and pitch my tent (no wind today).  

Tenby in the mist
 As I was pitching the tent the mist finally started to clear. I applied sunglasses and suncream, changed my boots for sandals and wandered back down into the town; suddenly I could see it. I saw Castle Hill that intersects the 2 beaches and I could see St Catherine’s Island (which is actually on the beach) and the Victorian fort atop it.  

the keep of the Norman castle and St Catherine’s Island
 Finally, out of the mist appeared Caldey Island, not very far away at all. 

South Beach and Caldey Island
 I could even see around the coast as far as Worm’s Head at the tip of The Gower peninsula.  

looking back at Tenby from Castle Hill
 I sat on a bench on Castle Hill in the late afternoon sunshine admiring the views.  

the (protected) view of St Catherine’s Victorian fort from Castle Hill (Caldey Island in the background)
 It was blissful in the sunshine and I sat there for a couple of hours just enjoying the beauty and the sound of the sea.  

looking along South Beach
 Eventually I wandered back up the hill to the campsite for a shower and to change before heading back down again for some dinner.  

the view down to Tenby and Caldey Island from the campsite
 I decided on the spur of the moment to treat myself to a nice meal at the Ocean restaurant overlooking the bay. A good way to end the day.  

walking back into town as the sun was setting

Day 253 The Road to Manorbier

Monday 11 April 2016

Angle to Manorbier

13 miles (+ car ride)

Manorbier Youth Hostel

After a very comfortable night on a camp bed in the Master-Gunner’s house I was plied with lots of coffee by George and ate bara brith for breakfast (Emma gave me a huge chunk of the cake that was leftover from the cafe). I certainly couldn’t eat any of my porridge as, during the night, a mouse had chewed through my cooking bag and half-eaten 2 packets. I caught him in the act with my head torch during the night; I think he winked at me. 

“Fresh West” (it’s been ages since I last saw sand dunes)
 George offered to give me a lift and I gratefully accepted as the next section, after Freshwater West, involved an inland road walk of about 10 miles in order to skirt around Castlemartin Artillery Range.  

I hope that surfer minds the rocks!
 George drove me down to look at the beach at Freshwater West (the waves looked good and there were a couple of surfers in the sea) and then dropped me at Bosherston Lily Ponds.  

Bosherston lily ponds (I saw a grebe)
 Unfortunately, due to the range being closed, it meant I did miss Elegug Stacks (locally known as “the green bridge of Wales”), St Govan’s Chapel and St Govan’s Head. I noted that if I hadn’t been in the car I would have walked a couple of dead ends down to closed gates and would have been very frustrated then at having to turn around.   

Broad Haven, where the lily ponds meet the sea
  
Broad Haven
 I think today’s walk should have given me some spectacular views along the coast but, unfortunately, the light was so flat it was not possible to see much of them. Still, at least it wasn’t raining! 

looking back from Stackpole Head to St Govan’s Head
 I stopped for a refreshment at Stackpole Quay and had the most disgusting Welsh rarebit I’ve ever eaten.  

amazing rock layers at Stackpole Head
 For the first time since Shell Island I walked along a sandy beach at Freshwater East; it made a nice change to the usual up and down the cliffs. Here I saw my first bluebells in the woods behind the beach. 

looking back on Freshwater East
 At Manorbier I walked up the hill, past the castle, into the village.  

Manorbier Castle, built in a small valley just above the beach
 It was almost 4pm and I was intent on an early pub dinner before the last couple of miles to the youth hostel in the middle of nowhere. I was the only one in the Castle Inn (well it was early) and the landlord said that all the houses in the village were second homes or holiday lets.  

Swanlake Bay
 The sun came out at 5 pm and finally I got some views. I walked past the youth hostel in order to get a good view of Caldey Island and to see the nice rock feature at Skrinkle Haven.   

Caldey Island in the early evening sunshine
 
Skrinkle Haven rock arch
  
Skrinkle Haven
 Manorbier Youth Hostel sits on the edge of the Manorbier Air Defence Range and was once the instructional building for the Thunderbird anti aircraft missile system. From 1937-70 the Artillery used to practise firing at towed targets over the Bristol Channel. 

There was a big school group staying – there to study the local geology. I was put in a 4-bed dorm with Isobel, a 24 year old American who was hiking around parts of Britain. I was very impressed by what she was doing and we shared stories over tea and more of this morning’s bara brith. A seasoned trail hiker, Isobel has 2 months in the UK and she’s spending it walking parts of various national trails (the South West Coast Path, the Wales Coast Path, the Pennine Way) as well as visiting Bath, Edinburgh and Shetland. I reckon she’ll end up seeing more of Britain than many Brits; good for her.  

some of the rock formations are stunning
 Joy of joys, the youth hostel had a washing machine. After 15 days of constant wear my clothes finally got properly laundered rather than the usual hand wash. I think everyone was grateful.  

 

WEEK 35 – Trefin to Angle, Pembrokeshire

 

82 miles walked

(total 1,957 miles walked)

A week of changeable weather and my first night camping this year. The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is the most popular coast path I’ve come across and I’ve passed quite a lot of walkers considering it’s out-of-season and the coastal buses aren’t running yet. Indeed I quite enjoyed that I kept meeting up with Jack and Deja this week. 

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path felt more remote than I imagined it to be. Almost all of the coastline is rugged cliffs and the path mostly traces the edge, weaving in and out, up and down. There are numerous coves with small settlements that have grown up but these rarely have facilities (I think many are full of second homes and seaside lets so empty much of the time). As a consequence, the coast path only passed one small supermarket (at Broad Haven) between Fishguard and Milford Haven. Fortunately I have not struggled to find enough pubs and cafes, but it would have been a much more difficult walk if I had been intent on self-catering.  

the beautiful Marloes Sands
 This week I passed lots of limestone kilns, almost at every cove, for providing lime for the crop fields. I also passed a number of groups of wild ponies grazing by the path at intervals and have seen one or two seals most days.  

ponies on the headland
 The highlight of the week was definitely my trip to Skomer.   

everyone loves a puffin