Day 297 Trevose Head and Bedruthan Steps

Friday 27 May 2016

Treyarnon to Mawgan Porth

13 miles

Magic Cove Campsite

It rained all night but, thankfully, it stopped at about 8.30 am and so I got up. What a grey day compared to the previous days. No matter, I was still sticking to my plan of walking around Trevose Head. 

Padstow Lifeboat Station at Mother Ivey’s Bay
Ian and Barbara, two coastal walkers who had camped on the same sites as me the last 2 nights, were already packed away and having coffee outside Constantine Store. I joined them and had chocolate milk, a cereal bar and a banana for breakfast. They were both lone walkers who had just walked together the last 3 days; Ian was heading for Plymouth and Barbara (another German) was heading home tomorrow. It turned out they were walking to Mawgan Porth as well today so we parted knowing we’d likely meet again later. 

Trevose Head Lighthouse
I walked across a golf course to the North side of Trevose Head at Mother Ivey’s Bay and then walked the coast back around to Treyarnon. The views were not as good as they might have been but the beaches were beautiful and the sea was outstandingly clear. 

Dinas Head and The Bull
I passed Booby’s Bay (scene of my surfing accident about 20 years ago) and walked along Constantine Beach. Surfers were already in the water and I stopped to buy a coffee from a little van and watch them. I remembered how I loved the houses sitting on the low cliffs here. 

Booby’s Bay and Constantine Bay
Booby’s Bay
Back at Treyarnon my tent had dried out so it was quick to pack away and get going.
Constantine Bay
The sea on the next section looked unbelievably stunning and reminded me of Scotland. I could see the rocks, the sand and the seaweed under the water. The cliff top was designated a corn bunting sanctuary area and I heard them but didn’t see any. 
beautiful clear, green water near Porthcothan
beautiful clear, blue water when looking in the other direction at deeper water
The cliffs here had been washed away to leave ‘fingers’ sticking out into the sea with small coves in between, each one more beautiful than the next. 
small coves, in and out, in and out
Porthcothan beach was empty. I skirted around it and carried on to Park Head. Porth Mear was a tiny cove, without a beach, that looked like a great spot for wild camping and swimming. 

Porthcothan Beach
The sun was coming out as I rounded Park Head and saw Bedruthan Steps. A lovely sight as the cliffs had grown higher and the sandy beaches more golden and further away at the base of the cliff. 
Bedruthan Steps…

…and again
I reached Mawgan Porth and, sure enough, Ian and Barbara had pitched at the same campsite I picked. We all shared one pitch, with our 3 small tents, and consequently the kind owner only charged is £4 each. Best bargain ever as it was a really clean and nice campsite. It was also full from tomorrow (half term) and I was concerned this was going to be the same at many campsites. 

Mawgan Porth
As soon as I’d handwashed my sweaty clothes I headed down to the beach for a swim. There wasn’t much surf but I managed to catch a few waves, even without a board or fins. This was better than the other 2 people standing in the sea holding surf boards. 

I can’t decide if everyone stares at me because I’m the only person not wearing a full body wetsuit (even though the sea isn’t cold) or if it’s my ridiculous tan lines?

Ian, Barbara and Tanya enjoying curry and a pint
I bumped into Tanya (the other German walker from last week) on the beach and we agreed to meet  in the Merrymoor Inn (the only pub in town) for dinner. Ian and Barbara joined us and we gorged ourselves on all-you -can-eat curry (which was actually really good) washed down with local beer. To top it off, tonight there was entertainment in the pub. We were treated to 84-year old Larry singing Irish folk songs and playing his penny whistle (he even wet it first!) and the Newquay Rowing Club Singers doing renditions of Cornish songs. It was all brilliant and the Germans loved it. What a great evening. 

the Newquay Rowing Club Singers

6 thoughts on “Day 297 Trevose Head and Bedruthan Steps

  1. Chris F May 30, 2016 / 8:43 am

    Still get sun burned on grey days…….dramatic coast and golden beaches…..cannot imagine what was the ‘chat’ was around the ‘Euro’ dinner table in the pub listening Larry ‘Mancanrow’ and his band!!!!


    • Lucy May 30, 2016 / 9:03 pm

      I can’t remember! I think we were just listening to the crooning


  2. Donna Munday May 30, 2016 / 11:15 am

    Loving your Cornwall posts Luc….knickers on the rucksack, amazing views, fun nights with singsongs in the pub….. if it wasn’t for the 10 – 20 miles a day walking I’d almost be jealous! You must be so fit by now with all those green-beret-garnering hills. Not surprised your shorts are hanging off you.
    Have fun with Jill this afternoon, don’t forget to go and see the seals (she can tell you exactly where) and if you pass the gorgeous Scarlet Hotel (eco hotel built into the cliff) then give it our love. We’re going back there later this year.
    See you in Devon hopefully.


    • Lucy May 30, 2016 / 9:06 pm

      I saw the seals, although only 3 today. Jill lovely. If I wasn’t doing this trip is be jealous of me right now!


  3. jstumm May 30, 2016 / 6:02 pm

    The picture of constantine bay isnt loading! Otherwise, beautiful pictures raising happy memories. Except for your accident. I don’t think I’ve ever been so scared.


    • Lucy May 30, 2016 / 9:00 pm

      Just tried to reload photo. You were great that day – quite professional


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