Day 306 Mousehole, Newlyn and Penzance

Monday 6 June 2016

Treen to Penzance

11 miles

The Luggar Hotel

Ruth very kindly cooked me breakfast so I didn’t leave Treen until late morning. 

the Minack Theatre on the cliff and Porthcurno beach
The sun was shining again as I walked over Logan’s Rock to get another view of Pedn Vounder. 

Pedn Vounder, the sand bank almost breaking the water
Penberth Cove is owned by the National Trust and maintained like it must have been 100 years ago. There is a beautiful stream flowing through by the fishermen’s cottages and a slipway with rowing boats still using it. 

Penberth, complete with stream, stepping stones, slipway and a rotating mechanism to haul boats up the slipway
After Penberth the path became very overgrown and I was stung plenty of times by waist-high nettles. When I reached Tater-du I bumped into two men from the Highways Agency strimming the path. I had walked the path a couple of hours too early!

the view along the coast, the sea looking a different colour again
The coast path goes along the beach at St Loy’s Cove. Well, it’s not really a beach, more like a jumble of huge rocks to scramble across. Luckily I was quite nifty at bouldering as one poor lady was taking an age to pick her way along. I did see an American Mink scampering across the rocks. 

the path(!) along St Loy’s beach, the stones became boulders after this
A steep climb up the cliff at the end of St Loy’s Cove took me to Boscawen Point and around to Tater-du Lighthouse. 

Tater-du Lighthouse
The sky was going grey by the time I reached Lamorna and I stopped for some lunch in the cafe. The harbour walls had been battered by winter storms and the end of one had fallen into the sea. 

Lamorna and its broken harbour wall
Overlooking Lamorna Cove was a memorial to DWW 13 March 1873. No further explanation but it was in a splendid spot. 

a memorial to someone or something unidentified
Kemyel Crease Nature Reserve is a small coniferous wood on a gently sloping granite cliff; a different sort of landmark for passing boats to use. 

Kemyel Crease coniferous wood
I walked into Mousehole in the middle of the afternoon and immediately went for a shandy in The Ship Inn. This pub had been recommended to me as it is full of old photos. The town was quite picturesque but larger than others of its ilk like Port Isaac. 

Mousehole is known for the Penlee lifeboat disaster of December 1981, when all 8 lifeboat crew were lost going to the aid of a stricken coaster. One of the crew had been the landlord of The Ship and there was a wonderful letter on display, written by the commander of the Royal Navy helicopter that attended the scene, describing the heroics of the lifeboat crew. Despite the awful tragedy, within 2 days a whole new crew of 8 had volunteered from the town. 

Mousehole
Mousehole is also known for its spectacle of Christmas lights that adorn the harbour. The photos looked impressive. I read a plaque telling me that the oldest house in the town (built 14th Century) was the only one to be spared when the Spaniards burned Mousehole in 1595. I didn’t know the Spaniards had made it onto our shores. 

an interesting garden on the outskirts of Mousehole (the scarecrow hasn’t worked – there’s a bird sat on it!)
From Mousehole it was a short walk along the road to Newlyn, the town where nearly all our fish are landed (the trawlers dock at either Newlyn or Peterhead, North Scotland). The harbour was full of fishing boats and the dock has huge fish markets. Newlyn had an industrious air. 

Newlyn Harbour, full of fishing boats
The Swordfish Inn had been recommended to me as a proper fishermen’s pub, and likely place to witness a fight. It sounded intriguing and I popped my head inside but it was too early for the punters. 

Newlyn merged into Penzance and my hotel was right on the front. I bought a pasty and sat on a bench looking out at Gwavas Lake, the bay in front of Newlyn, which is part of the larger Mounts Bay. I bought myself a picnic dinner and repaired to my hotel for a night in sorting my kit and relaxing. Sometimes it’s tiring being on the road. 

Newlyn’s memorial to fishermen lost at sea (2007)
I had booked myself on tomorrow’s Scillonian Ferry for a few days exploring the Isles of Scilly. 

The Scillonian

5 thoughts on “Day 306 Mousehole, Newlyn and Penzance

  1. Val K June 9, 2016 / 7:42 pm

    Luc your nature knowledge never ceases to amaze me. How an earth did you know it was an
    American mink was it waving a little Stars and Stripes flag? Hope you enjoy your mini cruise, does
    that mean you will have a little rest, you certainly deserve it. Val x

    Like

  2. Chris Frazer June 9, 2016 / 7:57 pm

    Enjoy the Scilly Isles a must for any bucket list mine included! Have fun Marshal of the Air (Retd).

    Like

  3. Donna Munday June 10, 2016 / 1:23 am

    “Sometimes it’s tiring being on the road.” This made me laugh a lot. Just reading your blog makes me exhausterised!
    Great blogs and pics. Don’t forget to let me know about your timing and where you’ll be on the last weekend in June. Dx

    Like

  4. jstumm June 11, 2016 / 7:00 am

    Loved the radio chat! Evelyn also enjoyed it, although Peter was wondering why your picture didn’t move!

    Like

  5. James Sawyer June 13, 2016 / 4:15 am

    Happy Birthday Lucy. I hope you have a fun day. Yours aye Jim Sawyer

    01507-568547 IPhone 07885-180664

    Like

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