Monday 6 June 2016
Treen to Penzance
The Luggar Hotel
Ruth very kindly cooked me breakfast so I didn’t leave Treen until late morning.
The sun was shining again as I walked over Logan’s Rock to get another view of Pedn Vounder.
Penberth Cove is owned by the National Trust and maintained like it must have been 100 years ago. There is a beautiful stream flowing through by the fishermen’s cottages and a slipway with rowing boats still using it.
After Penberth the path became very overgrown and I was stung plenty of times by waist-high nettles. When I reached Tater-du I bumped into two men from the Highways Agency strimming the path. I had walked the path a couple of hours too early!
The coast path goes along the beach at St Loy’s Cove. Well, it’s not really a beach, more like a jumble of huge rocks to scramble across. Luckily I was quite nifty at bouldering as one poor lady was taking an age to pick her way along. I did see an American Mink scampering across the rocks.
A steep climb up the cliff at the end of St Loy’s Cove took me to Boscawen Point and around to Tater-du Lighthouse.
The sky was going grey by the time I reached Lamorna and I stopped for some lunch in the cafe. The harbour walls had been battered by winter storms and the end of one had fallen into the sea.
Overlooking Lamorna Cove was a memorial to DWW 13 March 1873. No further explanation but it was in a splendid spot.
Kemyel Crease Nature Reserve is a small coniferous wood on a gently sloping granite cliff; a different sort of landmark for passing boats to use.
I walked into Mousehole in the middle of the afternoon and immediately went for a shandy in The Ship Inn. This pub had been recommended to me as it is full of old photos. The town was quite picturesque but larger than others of its ilk like Port Isaac.
Mousehole is known for the Penlee lifeboat disaster of December 1981, when all 8 lifeboat crew were lost going to the aid of a stricken coaster. One of the crew had been the landlord of The Ship and there was a wonderful letter on display, written by the commander of the Royal Navy helicopter that attended the scene, describing the heroics of the lifeboat crew. Despite the awful tragedy, within 2 days a whole new crew of 8 had volunteered from the town.
Mousehole is also known for its spectacle of Christmas lights that adorn the harbour. The photos looked impressive. I read a plaque telling me that the oldest house in the town (built 14th Century) was the only one to be spared when the Spaniards burned Mousehole in 1595. I didn’t know the Spaniards had made it onto our shores.
From Mousehole it was a short walk along the road to Newlyn, the town where nearly all our fish are landed (the trawlers dock at either Newlyn or Peterhead, North Scotland). The harbour was full of fishing boats and the dock has huge fish markets. Newlyn had an industrious air.
The Swordfish Inn had been recommended to me as a proper fishermen’s pub, and likely place to witness a fight. It sounded intriguing and I popped my head inside but it was too early for the punters.
Newlyn merged into Penzance and my hotel was right on the front. I bought a pasty and sat on a bench looking out at Gwavas Lake, the bay in front of Newlyn, which is part of the larger Mounts Bay. I bought myself a picnic dinner and repaired to my hotel for a night in sorting my kit and relaxing. Sometimes it’s tiring being on the road.
I had booked myself on tomorrow’s Scillonian Ferry for a few days exploring the Isles of Scilly.