Day 323 Gerrans Bay and Portloe

Thursday 23 June 2016

Portscatho to Boswinger, near Gorran Haven

13 miles

Boswinger Youth Hostel

the view around Gerrans Bay to Nare Head and Gull Rock
The sun woke me up, shining into my tent. The ground was quite wet but I packed away anyway and headed off, through Portscatho and around to Porthcurnick Beach. 

Porthcurnick Beach and Portscatho
The sea looked lovely, the sun was shining and the highly recommended Hidden Hut cafe didn’t open until 10am. 

The Hidden Hut cafe overlooking Porthcurnick Beach
Time for a swim. There were already 5 families on this tiny beach and a couple of people swimming. The water was lovely and clear. I dried off in the sun and hung my wet towel and costume over the cafe railings. Breakfast was coffee and a pasty. What a perfect morning. 

drying my swim stuff over breakfast
I eventually tore myself away and headed around the rest of Gerrans Bay, to Nare Head. I popped into the Lookout Station just North of Portscatho. There wasn’t much going on in the Bay today, just kayakers and small boats. 

Gerrans Bay
Kayakers near Nare Head
The walk around Gerrans Bay was beautiful, and the sea was wonderfully clear with lots of sand visible under the water and nice beaches. 

Carne Beach, beautiful colour of the sea
Carne and Pendower Beaches
I met a man who was scouring the Bay for divers; apparently this bay is a favourite over-wintering spot for black- and red- throated divers. He monitors them annually and a few were still hanging around. I thought I saw one but it was most likely a cormorant. 

Porthbean Beach, looking back on Pednvadan, towards the Lookout Station
From Nare Head I could see all the way back to Nare Point, with St Anthony Head breaking up the two bays, Falmouth and Gerrans. 

the view all the way back to Falmouth Bay and the Lizard
Nare Head had a bunker on it, the sister to one at Nare Point. Both were part of the network of Starfish sites during WW2; decoy sites using special effects to lure enemy bombers away from populated and significant areas such as Falmouth. 

a bunker on Nare Head
In 1962 an atomic early warning bunker was built underground. It was a survival unit designed for 3 men to live for 3 weeks monitoring radioactive fallout following a nuclear attack. It closed in 1991 but has been restored and is occasionally open to the public. 

Kiberick Cove, looking across Veryan Bay to Dodman Point
Nare Head and Gull Rock
I left cheerful Nare Head and carried on along the stunning cliff walk to Portloe. What a picturesque little town nestled in the crook of the cliffs. All the houses looked pristine and I wasn’t surprised to see the town had twice won Cornwall’s best-kept. 

approaching Portloe
The sun had been hot today and I needed a break. What luck, Portloe has a posh hotel. The Lugger Hotel welcomed me in, I relaxed on a sofa, read their newspapers and drank lots of tea while I dried out. It was a quiet and blissful hour. 

Portloe, tucked into the cliff
It was 4pm when I left Portloe and I still had a couple of hours of walking around Veryan Bay. It was just as hilly and just as spectacular as Gerrans Bay. 

a hilly coastline around Veryan Bay from Nare Head
There wasn’t much to West and East Portholland, but then I arrived at Porthluney Cove. Set back beyond the beach, surrounded by woods and parkland, was Caerhays Castle. It was rather imposing. 

West- and East- Portholland, separated by rocky cliffs
Caerhays Castle nestled in a wooded estate behind Porthluney Cove
Boswinger is at the top of a steep climb up from Hemmick Beach. I was glad to arrive at the Youth Hostel. I ate a very nice dinner in the hostel, which unusually was home-cooked by the staff. I then spent the evening in the company of 2 guys who had arrived early for a weekend away at the hostel as part of a larger, all male, group. They were seriously camp, and the 3 of us and the 2 female staff had a hilarious evening. Thanks to Wilson for all the prosecco!

Hemmick Beach and Dodman Point

One thought on “Day 323 Gerrans Bay and Portloe

  1. Chris F June 27, 2016 / 4:33 pm

    You used the word…..very apt….the coast, the sea and the little villages were all spectacular.


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