Monday 27 June 2016
Talland Bay to Downderry
Trerieve Farm Campsite
It was sunny again this morning. My day began with collecting the eggs to make my breakfast. Wonderful.
I had lots of admin to do and hung around with Jane for most of the morning, taking advantage of her wifi. Eventually, as today was supposed to be the best weather for the week, I decided I had to get going. I had been invited to stay an extra day and it was very tempting.
I could actually see Talland Bay today; it has lovely red rocks that extend underwater into the bay.
It didn’t take long to walk to Looe and I had great views of Looe Island as I walked around Portnadler Bay. The island is a nature reserve and was bequeathed to Cornwall wildlife trust in 2004 by the Atkins sisters. It is also a marine nature reserve and a chapel which, legend has it, Joseph of Arimethea came to visit.
Yet again the sea was the most beautiful colour, a deep blue and very clear.
Looe is a town of two halves; West and East. They were once individual towns and are physically separated by a river that splits into two; the West Looe River and the East Looe River.
It would have been easy to walk across the bridge; however, I preferred to pay 50p to cross the river by ferry.
On the edge of the river in West Looe there was a bronze statue of Nelson, a one-eyed bull grey seal who lived around Looe Harbour and Island for many years before he died in 2003. It’s funny what captivates people.
Three separate people, including Jane the food blogger, had recommended Sarah’s Pasties in Looe. Apparently the best in Cornwall (and therefore the World). I can’t describe how gutted I was to find the shop had sold out of pasties before I got there at lunchtime. I went and drowned my sorrows in coffee at The Lookout Cafe instead.
It was a steep climb out of Looe to the large houses that line the cliff heading to Mildendreath. One driveway had two Bentleys and a boat in it.
Mildendreath Beach seemed to be almost exclusively for residents of the Black Rock Beach Resort. The sand here had changed from yellow to a darker colour, more grey.
The cliffs on the way to Seaton had lots of houses and pine trees. Very nice, quiet, suburbia.
Seaton had another ‘grey beach’ with the Seaton River that ran out of the Seaton Valley Countryside Park and across the beach. Seaton merged in Downderry and here the houses had lovely views across the sea but it seemed like every other one was for sale or being rebuilt.
There were 2 campsites in Downderry and I chose the one at the top of a mega-steep hill. The other one was a naturist camp! My campsite was very basic, and it was a long walk back down the hill to the Inn on the Shore for dinner. I did wonder (only for a second) if I should have chosen the other campsite.