I awoke to glorious sunshine (and a fire alarm), fantastic (not so fantastic). I rushed my cooked breakfast (first one for a month) in order to catch the early bus to Rosehearty, which would avoid a walk along the main road. I was looking at today’s route when the bus arrived, and I didn’t get on. The driver even asked me if I wanted to get on as I had my bag in hand, but the thing was I couldn’t face another long day with wet feet and no paths. There were no defined paths on the map virtually the whole way to Macduff and I knew that my walk would involve forcing my way through more long grass, nettles and thistles, and probably navigating my way around some farmers’ fields and climbing fences. None of it was appealing. I had a quick rethink and decided to catch a bus all the way to Macduff instead. This new plan meant I had a couple of hours to kill in The Broch (Fraserburgh) so I headed to the very corner, the NE tip, in order to contemplate life. Fraserburgh marks the start of the Moray Firth, all 500 miles of coastline up to Duncansby Head (John O’Groats).
Kinnaird Head Lighthouse Kinnaird Head Lighthouse was the first one to be built by the Northern Lighthouse Board in 1787 and it was built into an existing castle. Now it is part of the Fraserburgh Lighthouse Museum. There is also a heritage museum (although I was too early for either museum to be open) and I wandered around the grounds.
The buoy park at the Heritage MuseumI walked right onto the Head and sat on a bench looking at the sea for ages. I watched a few birds and just enjoyed the sunshine glinting on the water and the sound of the sea. It was lovely and peaceful.
my bench I eventually walked into town, the usual small, grey streets I am becoming accustomed to up here. The pavements are so skinny that there are no fronts to any of the shops and I find it strange walking down a street with shops where you can’t see the shops until you’re right outside them. I bought a newspaper and sat in a cafe to enjoy a leisurely Saturday morning coffee and paper…just like home!
I caught the bus and we stopped at a couple of the small fishing towns I was missing. They looked stunning, albeit the sun was shining today. The cliff walking I was missing looked pretty tough as there were lots of beautiful valleys containing burns that flowed down to the sea, so there would have been a number of steep descents and climbs, with fences to clamber over. The Tore Burn valley leading not into Cullykhan Bay looked the biggest and most impressive, filled with gorse.
Looking back at Gordonstown – look at the hills!In Gardenstown there were some kids jumping off the harbour wall into the sea. It was a shame I missed Troup Head as that is a rather dominant feature along the coast and also an RSPB reserve.
Once in Macduff I headed back East a little, along the golf course, to get a good view of the cliffs I had missed.
The view back along the coast from Macduff to Gardenstown Tarlair outdoor pool is a relic waiting to be rescued. It could be amazing and it’s in a phenomenal location.
Tarlair outdoor pool, Macduff Although it probably doesn’t get much sun if the last 3 weeks are anything to go by.
Looking out to sea, just beautiful I walked into Macduff, enjoying that my boots were properly dry for the first time since Sunday. I had forgotten what colour they were! Rain clouds were coming overhead so I ducked into the Macduff Marine Aquarium and spent a couple of hours learning more about the diversity of marine species in the Moray Firth. It is an excellent facility with a huge tank open to the elements. I learned that there are 30 types of shark in the Moray Firth (including dog fish and other related species), and that kelp ‘trees’ can grow up to 30m tall. Hopefully I will see some more dolphins, and maybe even whales.
I walked through the Macduff streets, up the hill to the war memorial, and admired the view across to Banff and beyond. I could just about make out the hills in N Scotland, across the Moray Firth.
Macduff and Banff across the waterI checked into my guest house (not looking forward to the karaoke or the help-yourself-breakfast) and was advised there were only 2 options for dinner: the Chinese, or the Knowes Hotel. I went for the hotel. Great view from my window seat and there were hardly any customers in the only restaurant in a reasonably sized town on a Saturday night. This seems to me to be a difference between Scotland and England. View to Banff from restaurant
Peterhead to Fraserburgh
17.5 miles
Coral Haven Guest House
Another grey day. Will they ever end? It took me the best part of an hour to get to the centre of Peterhead so I stopped for a proper breakfast: a huge pancake with maple syrup and a coffee. It seems that bed and breakfasts in Scotland rarely provide a proper breakfast, at least the ones I stay at all seem to offer self-service cereals, and they’re not even cheap!
Peterhead Port looking drab in the mist I crossed the Ugie River via the Birnie pedestrian bridge leading to Peterhead Golf Club, the 18th oldest in the world. Before the bridge was built by a benefactor in the early 20th Century the golf club had to provide a ferry-man to allow access from the town. Here an old lady enquires about my walk and told me I needed to stay land-side by the burn at the end of the golf course as the beach had sinking sand. I took her advice on board and wished I hadn’t. The burn didn’t even reach the beach and I ended up walking through yet more wet grass in the dunes and so my feet, socks and boots were soaked again. I was not happy.
I had to jump down a sand dune to access the beach and then it was a 3 hour walk, mostly along the beach, to St Combs. There wasn’t much to see today, only a few birds and no people. I took a detour into the dunes at Scotston to find a path that would lead me to a bridge across a burn just before a huge gas terminal. Annoyingly, the path over the bridge and beyond was overgrown so I was treated to another soaking for my feet and legs and several nettle stings. Another jump down a sand dune cliff was required to access the beach again. Amazingly, as I approached Rattray Head the sun came out for an hour and I got a nice view of The Ron lighthouse just off shore.
Rattray Head Lighthouse The wind dropped off a bit as I rounded Rattray Head and there was lots of seaweed on the shore.
seaweed on the beachAt the next burn, coming out of Loch of Strathbeg behind the dunes, I took my boots and socks off and paddled across to avoid a detour into the dunes to find the bridge. I took the opportunity to sit down, eat my lunch and try to dry my feet and socks off a bit.
St Combs and Inverallochy were both grey towns with nothing going on. They were linked by a golf course that had some huge, grey and soulless-looking houses by the side of it. At Inverallochy I decided to get the bus the last 4 miles to Fraserburgh as my feet were getting sore from 2 days of walking with wet socks and boots. Standing at the bus stop it started raining; decision vindicated.
A bench at St Combs – built to withstand the elements! I arrived in Fraserburgh in time to collect my next set of maps from the Post Office and find my Guest House. This one does serve breakfast, hurrah.
Newburgh to Peterhead
23 miles
Invernettie Guest House
When I looked out of the window this morning all I could see was mist. Not very inspiring but I caught an early bus back to Newburgh anyway. It wasn’t raining but everything was wet. I walked over the bridge crossing the Ythan River and then entered the Forvie Nature Reserve.
a heronry on the Ythan banks – there are at least 7 herons in this photo Here there is an Eider duck sanctuary and I saw lots sat by the water, as well as a few seals.
An Eider bench
Eider ducks It was over a mile across the dunes and down to the beach. At one point I came up over a dune to be hit with a wonderful view of the Ythan, Eider ducks and terns everywhere.
The view across the dunes and the Ythan, Eiders and terns everywhereA couple of miles along the beach watching the terns catching fish and then it was back into the dunes, past the remains of a village lost to the dunes many years ago, and then into Collieston. Like a number of coastal villages I pass, it has no facilities, no shop, cafe or pub, just houses. All the gardens seemed particularly well tended though and there was a dolphin on the cliff.
Collieston
A dolphin on the cliffFrom Collieston I made my way up onto the cliffs. Although it wasn’t raining I was forced to don my waterproof trousers as the path was not well maintained and was overgrown with hip-height grass, nettles and thistles. It was so wet that it didn’t take long before my goretex boots were soaked through and I was squelching again. From Collieston to Whinnyfold was very hard going, following mainly sheep tracks that were narrow and difficult to see through the grasses so there was a lot of stumbling.
This is the path!The weather was grey and misty for a lot of the day so the view of the first Slains Castle of the day wasn’t the best. Slains Castle ruins through the mist I came across a farmer rounding up his sheep that were grazing on the cliff edge. He was putting them back in the field as they had sore feet from walking the same sheep tracks all the time, but they liked grazing the cliff. I had to listen carefully as his strong accent made him very difficult to understand. It was easy to understand his complaints about the weather though; he should have harvested his crop 2 weeks ago in the June sunshine, but not this year!
At one point I stumbled across a juvenile peregrine falcon perched on the cliff as I rounded a bend. We stared at one another before he took off. I stood and looked and so was screamed at by 3 peregrines circling above me until I moved far enough away from their nest. I was lucky to get such a good, close view.
I was able to take my waterproofs off at Whinnyfold (another village with just a few houses) as the path rounded the cliff top and dropped down to Cruden Bay so I could walk along the beach.
Cruden BayCruden Bay beach was where a Norwegian Kommander took off from in July 1914 on his way to completing the first crossing of the North Sea by air. The town has 2 convenience stores and a pub so I decided to stop for a nice lunch as I was soaked and tired. I can recommend the Kilmarnock Arms Hotel.
Smoked Ugie haddock risotto with a duck egg and a parmesan crisp – just what I needed! The last stretch was on the cliff top again but this time there was a better path for most of it. I walked to the 2nd Slains Castle, which was bigger and more imposing than the first. The mist cleared a bit and for half an hour I could see the old RAF Buchan golf ball radar on a hill. The cliffs were spectacular, particularly at Bullers of Buchan. All day I had the sights, sounds and smells of all the sea birds on the cliffs, and here there were some of the best views. I didn’t see a puffin or a gannet, but everything else was in abundance, even a couple of buzzards. Not only were there lots of birds to keep me interested but the rocks that formed the cliffs seemed to change throughout this walk as well. In better weather and with a better path this walk could well be at the top of the list of stunning cliff top walks.
Dunbuy CliffBullers of BuchanThe Hole at Bullers of BuchanI walked past an old quarry and down into Boddam, with its memorial to RAF Buchan personnel.
RAF Buchan personnel were appreciated by the folk of Boddam From here it was a short walk around a seafood factory, a power station, Sandford Bay and back to the guest house on the Southern edge of Peterhead. It was late and starting to rain. It had been a long day but the cliffs and the birds had been spectacular.
Aberdeen to Newburgh
15 miles
Invernettie Guest House, Peterhead
Oli gave me a lift back to the beach on the North side of the River Don. He walked the first couple of miles along the beach with me and I had an easy time of it because he carried my rucksack. It was nice walking with company.
Oli carrying my rucksack along the beachBalmedie Beach is about 10 miles long so I had planned to walk most of the day on the sand, which should make for easy walking. The weather forecast was rain and it wasn’t long before the fine mist in the air became a fine drizzle.
The beach has beautiful golden sand and I saw very few people.
Just my tracks on the beach The further North I went, the more alone I seemed and the bigger the flocks of birds gathered on the shoreline: gulls, oyster catchers, one flock of eider ducks at one point and terns diving for fish. I also saw the odd seal playing just off the beach. The birds and the sound of the sea kept me company. A group of Eider ducks
Disturbing a flock of gulls at Blackdog RockHalfway along the beach I walked through the only gap in the dunes and through Balmedie Country Park in search of a cafe in Balmedie. I saw a sign to the Beachside Cafe; little did I realise that it was a 30 minute walk from the beach! On the plus side, I was out of the rain for an hour and had a nice lunch.
I walked back to the Country Park and thought I’d follow a path through the dunes. It soon petered out and I had to cross the dunes and get back onto the beach.
Lots of dunesAfter a few more miles I came to the River Ythan and had to turn inland to Newburgh. There was a colony of grey seals hanging around at the mouth of the river; most lying on the sand, some fighting and several in the water. The ones swimming were very curious about me. Seals in the mouth of the River YthanAs I made my way into Newburgh the fine drizzle became heavier rain and I was forced to put on my waterproof. It was miserable and the thought of walking on to Collieston and wild camping, with not even a pub to go to, was appealing less and less. I walked past a bus stop and made a snap decision to wait 10 minutes for the next bus to Peterhead (tomorrow’s destination) as it is a bigger town. I found a basic guest house with a free room and was grateful to get dry. The weather forecast for the next few days is not good and today was pretty cold, only 9 degrees. I was glad I wasn’t camping.
Tod Head Lighthouse to Aberdeen
15 miles
Oli’s house (Sam’s friend)
Looking my best after a night camping at the top of the lighthouse I woke up to the sound of screaming gulls and a wonderful 270 degree view out of the lighthouse.
Tod Head lighthouse After breakfast Rohan walked me the “pub route” (scrambling around the cliffs) to Catelline, where she left me to catch the bus to Dunottar rather than walk on the road.
Rohan, with her lighthouse in the background Dunottar Castle was worth seeing. The ancient stronghold of the Earls Marischal of Scotland it has a long and colourful history due to its fantastic position on a high cliff surrounded by sea on 3 sides. It was the sight of a failed 8 month siege by Cromwell that saved the Scottish Crown Jewels.
The magnificent Dunottar CastleFrom Dunottar to Stonehaven was a well trodden path (hurrah) via the Stonehaven war memorial on Black Hill. It was built in 1922 and was designed to look like temple ruins. It’s siting and design made it possibly the most impressive war memorial I had come across. The Stonehaven War Memorial at Black Hill
It was then a short walk down into Stonehaven, the birthplace of Robert Thompson, inventor of the pneumatic tyre.
Stonehaven harbour with Garron Point in the background It seemed like a really nice town so I had a look around and stopped at the Cool Gourmet cafe, which I highly recommend for coffee and a homemade scone. Unfortunately the open air heated swimming pool, filled with sea water at the start of the season, was closed otherwise I might have been tempted for a dip. Instead I decided I wanted to walk to Garron Point, which is the Highland fault boundary, and is just North of Stonehaven. It marks the line between the sandstone rocks to the south and the harder, granite-type rocks to the North, the border between the Lowlands and the Highlands.
Garron Point, where the Lowlands meets the HighlandsI’m pleased I walked this route up through Cowie Kirkyard and across the golf course as the views back to Stonehaven, Black Hill Memorial and Dunottar Castle were excellent.
Looking back at Dunottar Castle, Black Hill and Stonehaven As it was already the afternoon, and the next section didn’t have marked paths, I walked back into Stonehaven to catch a bus to Portlethen. The bus stopped at Asda in Portlethen so I popped in to get a couple of bits and then thought I might as well push the boat out and get a taxi to Cove Bay to avoid a stretch of road walking. This worked well as it enabled me to enjoy the last stretch into Aberdeen along a beautiful coastline. I took the time to stop and watch the kittiwakes and razorbills nesting on the cliffs, ignoring the terrible smell. Can you see this kittiwake’s chick?Kittiwakes nesting on the cliffs
There were lots of caves in the cliffs and it was generally a very pleasant walk.
One of many cavesI crossed the stony Nigg Bay and then rounded Girdle Ness, past the lighthouse, and the port of Aberdeen came fully into view. There were lots of ships anchored in the bay and plenty more in port. Aberdeen port and looking across at Footdee and the Marine Operations CentreIt was a long walk around the port to Footdee, the old port area of Aberdeen with the new Marine Operations Centre. Here I met Oli, a friend of Sam’s, who had kindly agreed to put me up for the night. Another outdoors person, like Rohan, it was nice to chat and Oli was a great host. I was feeling really lucky to have had a few nights of good company now.
St Cyrus to Tod Head, Catalline
14 miles
Tod Head Lighthouse
Another cold, grey and rather windy day. I set off from Fran’s and headed to the St Cyrus beach, which was stunningly beautiful even under dark clouds.
Looking down the road to St Cyrus Bay at the mouth of the River North Esk, the boundary between Angus and Aberdeenshire It has enormous cliffs behind it that were formed from the eruption of a volcano near Montrose a long time ago.
Amazing cliffs set back behind the beach and the dunes The River North Esk flows out into the sea along a plain that splits the beach and you can see it has changed its course and some old fishing houses that were once by the river are now derelict buildings marooned in the dunes. I started walking on the beach but it was too windy and the sand too soft so I walked through the dunes instead and then had to scale the huge cliff via one of the few paths to the top.
Looking North from the cliff
Looking South from the cliff From here things got trickier as the map said there was a path, which the council had closed for safety reasons (erosion) and the only other way was to walk along the main A92 road. I walked through a potato field looking for another route and couldn’t get out over the electrified fence so had to double back. I decided to risk the path anyway and it was alright. The main problem was that it was so overgrown I was wading through long grass and nettles so that, in the current weather conditions, I ended up soaked through from the waist down, including my socks and inside my boots. But I made it to Johnshaven, albeit over an hour later than I expected as the going was very slow.
I had a quick stop at the pub there for a coffee and a chat to the owner who was from London. She has lived here for 18 years and loves the “rugged East Coast of Scotland”. I was warned coastal paths would be hard to come by.
I need one of these! On the way out of Johnshaven I saw a lady standing in her porch looking through binoculars so I tried to see what she was looking at; a small pod of dolphins heading North near the shore. My first sighting, brilliant. The kind lady lent me her binoculars to have a better look and I saw a couple of youngsters in the pod. They were travelling so slowly that I was outpacing them as I walked along the coastal cycle path to Gourdon; the easiest walking of the day.
Gourdon is a small fishing village and I stopped to have a quick look in the small museum there that houses the Maggie Law lifeboat – essentially a rowing boat. It was commissioned in 1890 by the fishermen of the village who all agreed to be taxed a penny to pay for it. The village already had a bigger, RNLI lifeboat but the fishermen were worried that they needed a flat-bottomed lifeboat that could rescue people from the rocky shoreline where boats were likely to get into difficulties. In the end they rescued 36 people between 1890 and 1930. What a heart warming story.
The Maggie Law museum, Johnshaven It was only a mile from Gourdon to Inverbervie and once across the town’s river the path petered out. It was then a case of scrambling up the rocks, following sheep tracks, walking through barley fields and climbing several fences to make my way to Tod Head lighthouse to meet Rohan. It was worth the effort.
Beautiful cliffs North of Inverbervie but no paths
Ever get the feeling you’re being watched? Rohan is an incredible lady that Sam put me in touch with as she does a lot of wild camping. She has climbed all the Munros and the Corbetts and is an expert at wild camping so I had lots of questions. She was in the process of turning the lighthouse into her home and very kindly put me up for the night. Despite the building site and no running water in the main house Rohan cooked a wonderful dinner. I ‘camped’ at the top of the light tower listening to the howling wind and woke to the screaming birds. What a fantastic experience. Thanks Rohan.
A strange week. I think I struggled to get back into a disciplined habit after 12 days without walking, planning, booking ahead, writing my blog, finding meals and charging phones. I also found I was quite lonely this week and I think I might have talked the ears off Fran and Sam during my stay with them.
A week of 2 halves. Walking through Fife was really nice: a well-marked coastal path, beautiful scenery, wildlife, people and picturesque little coastal towns. Crossing the Tay Bridge seemed to send me to the opposite: an absence of footpaths, drab towns with few people and sometimes little to see. I think the grey weather didn’t help and, talking to Fran, I know that Angus is a beautiful part of the country and my visit was marred by some boring walking on cyclepaths, drab weather and poor choice of cafes. I shall hope for a better experience next time because Lunan Bay and Seaton Cliffs are worth a visit. Maybe I should have tried the Arbroath smokies?
My favourite place was East Neuk of Fife with its lovely little fishing towns so neatly kept and the lovely coastal paths between them. (And the nice cafes.) One of several flower-boats in Fife towns, this one in West WemyssA big thank you to Ruth for allowing me to use his house for the week, and also to Sam and Fran for hosting me for 2 nights. It has been very convenient in so many ways to have a base to go back to for several nights; however, I think that after 3 weeks with 3 bases I am ready to get back to a more nomadic lifestyle. I have noticed that, whilst harder and less convenient, moving on every day does feel more like I am moving forward in my journey. I guess there’s always a trade-off!
I got up late with no plans for where I was heading, 5 days of blog still to catch up on and it was raining. Perfect day to overstay my welcome with Fran and Sam and enjoy an unplanned rest day to try and catch up.
Once I’d got up to date with my blog I helped Fran and Sam wash the summerhouse, which was actually rather relaxing. I have enjoyed their company.
Washing the summer house on my day offThe sharp rain showers made me glad I wasn’t walking; however, the weather warnings for thunderstorms didn’t materialise.
Arbroath to Montrose
15 miles
Fran’s house (brother’s friend)
I left Ruth’s house for the final time and caught a bus and then train to Arbroath. I reckon I got a better view of the coast from the train than I did walking yesterday. Arbroath seemed deserted as I followed the signs to “fit o’ the toon” (the foot of the town) and found myself in the small harbour. I could have stopped at any number of half a dozen small shops selling Arbroath smokies, most of which seemed to be somebody’s front room. I walked down the streets of small terraced houses, out into Victoria Park and then up onto Seaton Cliffs.
Terraced housing and one of several smokie shops It was a gloomy day, just grey, no clouds, everything grey – the sky, the houses, the sea, and this was turning my mood grey! The annoying Angus Coast Path, with its poor signs and poor paths (or no paths) was not helping. This was a shame because had Seaton Cliffs been anywhere else they would have been magnificent, but here, today they just had to be walked. If you can peer over the sandstone cliffs there are some obvious caves and inlets that would be great to explore by sea, and I did see a couple of sea kayakers. I could also smell and hear plenty of sea birds nesting on the cliffs. There were plenty o gulls and occasionally I saw fulmars, razorbills and cormorants.
Seaton Cliffs I walked through the small village of Auchmithie and the path to Lunan Bay took me slightly inland on farm tracks and skirting a few crop fields. I reached the Bay at the Southern end where a few shacks and caravans made up the tiny settlement of Corbie Knowe and had a great view along the beach before I walked it. It was beautiful and there was no one here on this huge expanse of beach in summer.
Lunan Bay from Corbie Knowe Halfway along the beach Lunan Water flows out into the sea and so I had to detour inland and over a road bridge at Lunan Village. I had a quick chat with a man who I’d just watched drive his tractor around the sand; he owned the main house by the beach (and the beach as well). He uses the tractor to pull in the salmon nets laid out in the bay. He directed me up a path around Red Castle into Lunan and confirmed that I couldn’t walk to Montrose any other way than following the cycle way along the roads. Armed with that knowledge I walked up the hill to the main road and waited for a bus, just as the sun was coming out.
Red Castle at Lunan BayThe view from Red Castle of Lunan Water and across the Bay I caught the bus along the A92 and across the bridge that spans the River South Esk and the Montrose Basin. Montrose is a large town and was the first busy place I’d seen. I didn’t spend long here as I still had to reach St Cyrus further along Montrose Bay. I followed yet another cycle track along a disused railway line that used to take the salmon to London. I crossed the viaduct over the River North Esk, which took me out of Angus and into Aberdeenshire. It was here that Sam and Fran picked me up and I got a lift the last 2 miles up the hill to their house. I was treated to a lovely evening of good food and good company.
Looking towards the sea from the North Water viaductLooking up river from the North Water viaduct
I caught the bus to Dundee and started walking along the cycle route next to the docks. I’d only gone about a mile when I came across a checkpoint and signs telling me it was possible to cycle through the docks (if I had appropriate ID) but walking was not allowed. Disgruntled I was forced onto the main dual carriageway as the only route and so when I spied a bus stop I decided to catch the bus to Broughty Ferry.
Once in ‘The Ferry’ I stopped at a cafe to cheer myself up and then continued past Broughty Castle and along the cycle route to Monifieth and Carnoustie.
Broughty Castle Today’s walk was very dull. I spent nearly all day walking along cycle paths next to railway lines and with very little to see. Angus council has not yet provided a tourist route for walkers, only cyclists and drivers.
I walked past Barry Buddon rifle ranges that extend out towards Buddon Ness and prevent the public from accessing the coastline. After them it was Carnoustie and the British Amateur Championship was taking place so there were a few people and TV cameras about.
Golfers playing Carnoustie I stopped at another cafe in Carnoustie, and to admire the very well kept war memorial, before starting the march to Arbroath.
After about 20 minutes I realised that the walk was pointless as I was following the trainline (again) and so I turned around and marched back to Carnoustie and got the train and bus back to Ruth’s. Possibly my most boring day of the trip so far.
Lucy's Walk Around Britain 